Issue 35 Food Feature

Michael Meredith is flavour of the month on Auckland’s quality dining scene – make that year. The selection of his restaurant Meredith’s as Supreme Winner in the Metro Audi Restaurant of the Year Awards 2009 has taken the quietly spoken Samoanborn master chef to the top of an environment that’s extremely competitive, professional and described internationally as world class. The “intricately combined flavours and textures, perfectly cooked individual ingredients and beautifully presented dishes” (judges comments) presented at Meredith’s is a far cry from the corned beef-KFC-high fat foods that have become so ingrained into the stereotypical humour of Pacific people – as well as the stomachs. But INNES LOGAN discovers a chef whose passion for food is matched by his passion for the Pacific and a dream of one day returning home.

Growing up in Samoa gave Michael Meredith a far greater appreciation for food than he ever could have gained if he grew up in New Zealand.

“I learnt everything there from burying an umu to killing a pig. You see it all in basic form, you know where your food comes from and you appreciate the sacrifices that were made,” he says.

“It gave me an understanding and appreciation for making the most of raw materials that are available, not wasting anything.”

Since starting his own restaurant two years ago, Michael Meredith has wasted no time in further enhancing his growing reputation. Meredith was the head chef at The Grove restaurant when he featured in the July/August 2005 issue of SPASIFIK.

He spoke of his life in Samoa and hanging around his mother Metita’s panikeke (pancake) stall at the Apia markets. Metita would also work for the Australian High Commission in Samoa, preparing food for up to 80 people.

Meredith admits he wasn’t much help to his Mum, but being around food nevertheless aroused his interest. He came to New Zealand to live with his uncle at age 13 and also developed a passion for art, which is reflected in the stunning presentation of his dishes, and a taste to match.

A scholarship at AUT – Auckland University of Technology – was followed by another that allowed him to study in the United States for the CIA – not the Crime Intelligence Agency but the Culinary Institute of America.

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